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Japan Travel: Peaks and valleys
Stephen Mansfield ventures into the picturesque
calderas of Kyushu's Aso-Kuju National Park.
Flying above what was later to become the Aso-Kuju National Park in Kyushu,
writer James Kirkup, in his 1960s travel book "Japan Behind the
Fan," described an "afternoon sun shafting low" over
a "golden and green landscape tinged with brown and yellow, all
the colors of ripeness." The description holds equally true today.
Home to an active volcano and the world's largest caldera, measuring
18 kilometers by 24km, the Aso area is a vast grassland with mountain
slopes deeply furrowed by trenches and grass-covered gutters.
After taking the switchback train from Kumamoto to the unassuming town
of Aso, we opted to stay at Aso-no-Fumato, a boardinghouse that is part
of a large, clean and well-run farmhouse, set in a yard and rock garden.
Run by a cheerful matron, our immaculate lodgings were in a charming country
locale and distant enough from Route 57 to be blissfully quiet.
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| Yellow lava rocks from the calderas
are sold as souvenirs in Aso |
Located within the national park, Aso is little more than a base for
renting cars, finding accommodation and checking on bus times to the nearby
caldera, although there are restaurants, a hot spring public bath or two,
and pleasant private gardens. The local mountains and volcanoes dominate
the life and livelihood of this area, blotting out almost every other
feature.
Venturing out
The ideal way to explore the Aso area is by bicycle. A steep ride up has
the advantage of a blissful one down. If time permits, hiking is another
option. The undulating farmland that meets the southwestern slopes of
Aso-zan is the least tourist-infested, and only requires a little extra
effort and time to reach. Tracks lead to dark green gorges gleaming with
cool shallow streams, horse-grazing pastures and dark, mossy slopes and
hillocks that resemble giant mounds of spinach.
Inside the caldera walls, an ancient fence of curling volcanic rock, the
land is greener and darker, the grass more luxuriant and the earth more
fertile. The floor of the caldera is a patchwork of rice fields and other
crops, attentively farmed by families, some of whom have lived in the
area for generations.
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An unusual statue
greets hikers on their way up Nakadake
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Once in the caldera, the striking and beautiful profile of Komezuka,
which means "inverted rice-bowl," looms into view. The hill
lives up to its name and could also be likened to an ancient burial mound.
Buses en route for Nakadake, the massive, highly active crater, stop a
little further along at Kusasenri-ga-Hama, a circular plain that was originally
a minor crater. A large pond at its center serves as a watering hole for
cattle and horses. It is possible to hire one of these nags for a carefully
escorted trot around the plain. But their eventual fate may be an unsavory
one, as many of Aso's horses are destined to end up served as basashi
(raw horse meat), along with other Kyushu specialties such as salted squid
fried in butter, broiled baby clams and grilled sparrow, in the nearby
restaurants of Kumamoto.
Volcanic activities
The Aso Volcano Museum, with its 170-degree, multi-screen viewing room
with images of the crater and its catchment area, is also located at Kusasenri-ga-Hama.
This is not a must-see, given that superb views are everywhere, but two
cameras attached to the crater wall relaying continuous images of the
cone's activity do provide some interest. The nearby Music Box
Museum, however, is decidedly missable.
Signposts along the roads to Nakadake welcome visitors to Hi-no-Kuni,
the "Land of Fire." Mount Aso is actually a series of five
volcanic cones, its massive caldera stretching to a circumference of 128km.
Of the five peaks, the 936-meter Daikanbo is the highest. Nakadake, an
active volcano that last erupted in 1979, emits sulfuric fumes and high-temperature
gases, which occasionally bring hiking above the basin to an abrupt halt.
The paths around and above Nakadake crater have domed futuristic shelters,
covered with crater fallout from past eruptions. Plumes of smoke waft
from the crater's rumbling cracks and water bubbles from its coarse
rock face.
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| Semi-tropical plants like this cycad
flourish in Aso's rich volcanic soil |
All this subterranean activity means superb hot springs, most found in
the caldera itself, although there are retreats tucked away in the nearby
highlands as well. Futae Pass, a stone-paved route preserved in much the
same state as when daimyos and their families made their mandatory travels
from the region to Edo, also winds its way through the area. A statue
of temporary Kumamoto resident Soseki Natsume also stands at Nakadake.
The statue's benign pose is more suited to a kindly Confucian elder
than a brilliant but neurotic writer prone to bouts of depression.
A cable car takes visitors to the top of Nakadake, on clear days providing
awesome views into the depths of the crater and its malodorous blue-green
lake. Hikers who are up to the challenge can follow a path to the summit
for a closer look.
One popular route starts at the cable car station, proceeds to Mount Takadake,
and then goes around the crater rim before descending to Sensuikyo Gorge.
Less popular, but equally dramatic, is Sunasenri, a caldera topped up
with ash to form a sea of black volcanic sand that can be discovered a
little east of Nakadake. Here, among the footprints of the odd visitor,
Himalayan-style cairns and some striking gorges and overhangs, one expects
to come across the bones and fossils of ancient sea creatures or a rusting
lunar vehicle. In this dead zone's fascinating landscape and geology,
time can dissolve. The last bus back to town can leave earlier than one
might expect, so be very aware of transport times. The three-hour walk
to Aso Station is mostly downhill and has little traffic, but at night
picking through the pitch-black pine forest and bush of a wildlife reserve
is not recommended.
Aso's caldera, and the spa towns that lie within it, such as Uchinomaki
and Akamizu, as well as its striking grasslands and slopes, are reminiscent
of some Arthurian setting. The tourist brochure avoids calling it "unique,"
in favor of describing the region as "providing an experience not
available elsewhere." Unique, though, would do nicely.
Getting there
The Kyushu Kokusai Kanko Bus leaves regularly from Beppu and Kumamoto.
The JR Hohi Line switchback train takes 90 minutes from Kumamoto to Aso
town and affords great views. On weekends a steam train does the same
trip in two-and-a-half hours.
Accommodation
Aso-no-Fumato charges ¥4,500 without meals. The luxurious 180-room
Aso Prince Hotel (tel: 0967-35-2111) at the base of Nakadake boasts a
golf course designed by Arnold Palmer.
Information
Aso is at its most lush and green from May through the summer months,
though its big festival, the Hiburi-Shinji (Sacred Fire Ritual), falls
on March 3.
Photos by Stephen Mansfield
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B u y i t o n l i n
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Hokkaido Highway Blues : Hitchhiking Japan |
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Travelogue
HIS Experience Japan is offering tourists and residents of Japan a chance to experience “real Japanese culture,” in addition to the usual tourist spots. The company has nearly a dozen programs that allow participants to learn directly from professionals. Activities include sushi-making, yuzen silk-dying, calligraphy, karate and ninja lessons, taiko drumming and lantern-making, among others. Guides who speak English, Chinese, Korean and Spanish are available, and reservations can be made online at http://hisexperience.jp/. Further info is available in English by calling 03-5322-8988.
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TRAVEL ARCHIVE:
775: Setagaya Line
Take a tram through the historic backstreets of Tokyo’s most populous ward
773: Shiretoko
Take a dip in the ice-cold waters of this sleepy Hokkaido town
769: Beihai
The crumbling relics of this seaside resort reveal a secret history
767: Harbin
A guide to China’s Sapporo-shaming Snow and Ice Festival
765: Ogasawara
Escape the cold with a trip to Tokyo’s southern paradise
763: Amabiki Village
Escape the ordinary at an outdoor sculpture exhibit in Ibaraki
761: Sugamo
The “obachan” version of Takeshita Dori awaits in northern Tokyo
759: Yufuin
Hot springs and mountain climbing await in this slice of Kyushu
757: Okunoshima
From Poison Gas Island to paradise
755: Kyoto’s Hidden Palaces
Escape the tourist mobs at former imperial villas
753: Iriomote Island
Go trekking through forest primeval—without leaving Japan
751: The Old Kiso Road
Tread in the footsteps of Edo-era travelers, and sleep where they slept
749: Welcome To Japitzerland
Europe’s crossroads of cultures makes room for one more
747: Tokyo Port Wild Bird Park
Get your ornithology fix at this Shinagawa sanctuary
745: Amami Oshima
Channel Jurassic Park on this verdant Japanese Island
743: Niseko
Hokkaido’s winter wonderland turns out to be an all-seasons destination
742: Macau
Head to the “Asian Las Vegas” for an easy getaway from Tokyo
741: Qingdao
The seaside Olympic city sees the dawn of a new day in a reflection of its German past
739: Kumano
Lose yourself in the natural splendor of Japan’s spiritual center
737: Mongolia
Gallop through the countryside of Central Asia
735: Tokai
Head west for a dose of old Japan and unforgettable cultural curiosities
733: Faroe Islands
Find a sense of solitude in a dramatic North Atlantic landscape
731: Uchiurayama
The hills of Chiba make getting away from it all easier than expected
729: The Camargue
The beautiful French marshland beckons flamingos, Gypsies—and you
727: Ohara
Sip shiso tea and explore Meiji-era buildings in a valley that time forgot
725: Lake Shirakaba
Enjoy winter sports and cozy hot springs in the highlands of Nagano
723: Zao
Snow monsters (and monster runs) await visitors to Japan’s oldest ski resort
721: Kushiro
Cranes, trains and no automobiles await visitors in Hokkaido
717: Izu Ryokan
A new concierge service helps urbanites escape to luxurious inns of old
715: The Kimberley
The remote region is one of Australia’s—and the world’s—most pristine ecological areas
713: Ishigaki Island
Swim with big fishes in this little corner of paradise
711: Oman
The Sultanate comes of age as a modern gateway to Old Arabia
709: A Steep and Narrow Place
All relaxing and no throngs of tourists make this Central American island far from dull
707: Under the sun in Utila
All relaxing and no throngs of tourists make this Central American island far from dull
705: Kamikochi
Nagano’s Kamikochi region shows why the Japan Alps rival their European namesake
703: Hoofing it in Paris
Enjoy an urban trek around the City of Light
701: Kurama and Kibune
Escape the hustle and flow in the hills around Japan’s ancient capital
699: Majestic Ruins
Follow the colorful Guatemalan rainforest to a pot of Mayan architectural gold
697: Hakone
Find leisure, pirate ships and “romance” just a stone’s throw from Tokyo
695: Vientiane
The remnants of French colonial history linger in Laos’ “City of the Moon”
693: Shonan
With everything from kite surfing to beach parties, the OC of Tokyo beckons
691: Alternative Stays in New York
A new breed of accommodation offers the best of hotels and apartments
689: Little Edo
Ancient Tokyo comes alive in the Chiba village of Sawara
687: Santorini’s Other Side
The volcanic island offers an unexpected glimpse of Greek life
685: Mikurajima
Swim with dolphins in a pristine wilderness
683: Madang’s Magic
Papua New Guinea’s heavenly climate and colorful mix of cultures illuminate the senses
681: Kyoto Nightlife
After a day of temples and gardens, nothing’s better than a cold one
679: Holiday in Iraq
A journey through the Kurdish north is hardly as dangerous as it seems
677: The Little Island
Escape the late-winter blues with a tropical blast from the past
675: Scenic Spirituality
Commune with religion and nature in an ancient land
673: Aoni Onsen
Return to a forgotten time at one of Honshu’s most remote getaways
671: The Golden Rock
One of Burma’s many splendid attractions hangs by a hair
669: Hida Takayama
For personal trips gentle to the soul, seek out the old-time charm of Hida Takayama
667: Vinales
Experience the vibrant colors of Cuba at this remote farming hamlet
665: Okayama
A serene stroll through history awaits at this seaside retreat
663: Cruising the Bay
Ha Long Bay offers a breath of calm away from Vietnam’s urban rush
661: Agamachi
Fox fires and bar codes help a rural Niigata town reinvent itself
659: Sulawesi
Scenic beauty and explosive rituals go hand in hand in Indonesia
657: The Okami
Twenty-five ryokan welcome international guests to Izu
655: Lijiang to Lhasa—by motorcycle
Sixteen motorcyclists cross the Roof of the World
653: Kaleidoscopic Nikko
The fabled sightseeing destination comes alive in autumn
651: Tiger’s Leap
Sipping Butter Tea with the monks of Zhongdian
649: Kawasaki Daishi
Kanto’s most impressive temple is closer than you think
647: The lawless roads of Samoa
Extreme bus driving as a way of life in the South Pacific
645: Escape to the wilderness
Return to nature on two of Japan’s most remote islands
643: Spanish Sojourn
One train pass is all you need to experience three classic cities
642: New Kyoto
Japan’s proud old capital gets a glimpse of its exciting future
639: The Watered Ruins
Soak up some royal history in Sukhothai, Thailand
637: The Washboard Coast
The faded glories of Miyazaki are ripe for rediscovery
635: Cape Tribulation
Explore Australia’s wild side on the coast north of Cairns
633: Just A Castaway
Hidden messages and burnt-out Tokyoites wash up on Okinawa’s islands
631: Big trouble in middle China
Or, how we almost froze on one of china’s sacred peaks
629: The Scalding Pools
Hell on earth can be found in Beppu, a must-visit for fans of Japanese onsen
627: Night Of The Devil Fish
The Philippine island of Malapascua is home to sand, sun—and one very strange safari
625: Storm Damage
Devastated by a volcanic eruption six years ago, the island of Miyakejima is back in business—sort of
625: Think the Ice Bar is Cool?
Try Spending a Night at the Ice Cold Ice Hotel
623: Beyond the Taj Mahal
Three cities off the beaten path reveal India’s Heart and Soul
620: Snowy Japan
Skiing and snowboarding conditions this year are close to perfection
618: Half a world away
Find out why one local expat traveled from London to Tokyo—by bicycle
617: Spectacle in the Sand
Dubai Defies Physics, Geography and Cost in Pursuit of the Cutting Edge
613: Mob Scene
At Kyoto’s Ume-yu bathhouse, the customers are young, tough... and tattooed
611: City of Sand
From crowded markets to placid mosques, Cairo’s attractions are legion
609: On the edge
Hateruma Island offers a primeval slice of sand and surf
607: Land of calm
Get a glimpse of unspoiled Asia in the lush countryside of Laos
605: Just like heaven
Nokogiri-yama in chiba is as
appealing as Nikko or Kamakura,
and just as accessible
602: Place your Bets
Macau pays its respects to history while keeping a keen eye on the future
598: Bring it on
Peak season can’t come soon enough for hotels in southern Thailand
596: Rhythm City Cuba
In the island nation’s largest port, the common language is music
594: City of Peace
Sixty years after the infamous attack, Hiroshima is a site of remembrance
592: Big sky country
Endless vistas and mysterious shrines await in rural Mongolia
590: Hidden pleasures
Kyoto’s little-visited gardens justify a trip all their own
588: Another Country
While maintaining its cultural distinction, the Basque homeland of Bayonne
offers the best of Spain and France
586: Stepping into the past
Beaches, museums—and painted ladies—await visitors in Atami
and Ito
584: Getting to the Roots of Kuala Lumpur
In quiet parks and bustling markets, Malaysia’s capital reveals its past
and future
582: The great outdoors
Shinrin Koen in Saitama offers year-round fun for space-deprived Tokyoites
580: Seoul, revisited
Ancient and modern worlds collide in the Korean capital, a city of futuristic
architecture, tranquil palaces and fiery cuisine
576: Ancient treasures
Explore untouched 900-year-old temples in Myanmar’s Bagan region
574: The High Life
Squeeze a last bit of fun out of winter in the mountains of Nagano
572: The Other Side of Cape Town
Township tours offer a vibrant glimpse of daily life in South Africa
570: White day
Yuzawa offers beginners a chance to ski before the snow melts
568: City of spice
Take a gastronomic tour through India’s food capital
566: Life Cyclist
An around-the-world biker makes a pit stop in Tokyo
564: Forest in the Clouds
Rainswept trails and lush beauty await in Costa Rica's Monteverde nature preserve
561-2: Geisha for a day
Kyoto's makeover studios offer visitors a new twist on tradition
559: Southern comfort
Indonesia’s most vibrant village replenishes heart, mind and soul
557: Show time
Nagoya is a city of potential heading into Expo 2005
555: Waterworld
Float across the watery heart of Brunei’s capital, Bandar Seri Begawan
553: Mountain dew
A retreat restores the senses in the highlands of Fukushima
551: Turquoise baths
Warm, white sand meets an ocean of blues in a remote corner of the South
Pacific
549: Sea world
A grueling 25-hour boat ride ends in the idyllic island chain of Ogasawara
547: Train spotting
The Trans-Siberian Railway is an epic journey that begins right at Japan’s
doorstep
545: In praise of slowness
Yunishigawa offers a leisurely glimpse into Japan's illustrious past
543: Block party
A guide to fun on the fringe at Hong Kong’s nightlife district of
Lan Kwai Fong
537: The middle way
Andrew McHugh embarks on a timeless pilgrimage in Tokyo’s tranquil
backyard.
533: The simple life
City slicker Matthew Reiss takes a breather along Shikoku’s Shimanto
River.
529: The lost world
In search of an ancient civilization swallowed by the sea, Carlo Niederberger
plunges into the waters off Yonaguni.
525: Nature trails
Hakkakuso in Tateyama offers a jumping-off point for cycling, swimming,
and the well-preserved charm of Japanese fishing villages. Steve Trautlein
heads to the coast.
521: High tea
Cha and music have long been Nagasaki's two great passions. Simon Rowe
hops on a tram to sample the Kyushu city's delights.
517: The hill is alive
Grab your coats and your wallets for a tour of the best of Osaka with
local boy Simon Rowe.
513: A walk in the woods
Matt Button heads to Hokkaido and revels in the serenity of Daisetsuzan
National Park.
507: Time and again
The history of Arima runs as deep as its hot springs. Stephen Mansfield
soaks up the local ambience.
503: Riverside retreat
The rustic Okayama town of Takahashi offers the casual visitor a release
from the world. Stephen Mansfield enjoys the time on his hands.
499: Tropics of interest
Urban escapees in search of a little anonymity are drawn to Ishigaki-jima.
Simon Rowe finds out why.
495: City by the sea
Once a pirate haunt, the port town of Onomichi in the Inland Sea still
houses an intriguing array of temples, and a surprising number of cats and
cat lovers. Stephen Mansfield goes exploring.
491: Easy streets
Ocean breezes, smiling faces, exotic markets, and a laid-back pace. Catherine
Pawasarat finds Japanese-style relaxation on the shores of the Noto Peninsula.
487: Into the wild
John McGee plumbs the depths and scales the heights of Tohoku's grandest
national park.
483: Green Peace
Home to Kyoto-style gardens and the Peace Museum for kamikaze, Chiran
offers a healthy dose of history and culture. Stephen Mansfield takes a walk.
479: Walk in the woods
Take a step back in time with a leisurely stroll through the forests and
towns of the Kiso Valley. Mary King sets the pace.
475: Pilgrim’s progress
Simon Rowe braves the storms and heads down to Shikoku’s “Typhoon
Ginza,” Cape Ashizuri.
471: Companions of the sea
Life in the Seto Inland Sea town of Tomo-no-Ura revolves around its fishing
industry. Stephen Mansfield experiences the salty charm.
467: Monuments to history
Once a refuge from wars, Yamaguchi has survived the blight of modern urban
development, Stephen Mansfield observes.
463: Land of the giants
Simon Rowe goes hiking on Yakushima Island, home to tropical beaches,
granite hills, and the world's oldest-and largest-cedar trees.
459: Northern exposure
Home to king crabs, towering snow sculptures and one of the country's biggest
beer companies, Sapporo is the center of life on Hokkaido. Simon Rowe hits
the city streets.
456: In from the cold
Simon Rowe and Masami Hamada fight off the winter chill in the warm waters
of Kinosaki
452: Keeping the peace
David Capel visits the quiet hamlet of Matsumoto, home to Japan's oldest existing
castle.
448: Past into present
Stephen Mansfield takes the road less traveled and turns up in the historic
samurai homestead of Obi
444: Chariots of ire
The annual Nada Fighting Festival
440: Hook, line and sinker
Summertime and the fishin' is easy-in Ichikawa village
436: Peaks and valleys
Stephen Mansfield ventures into the picturesque calderas of Kyushu's Aso-Kuju
National Park
432: Water's edge
Seto Inland Sea the place for epicures and adventurers
428: Block party
Renowned for its legendary temples and manicured gardens, Kyoto is one of
Japan's top tourist destinations
424: Honshu's holy hotels
Simon Rowe seeks serenity and a satisfying meal alongside the monks of Koya-san
420: High Art
Since its opening five years ago, a reclusive sect's stunning museum has attracted
wide international acclaim.
416: Fire and brimstone
Hot water and Japanese hell come together in Oita Prefecture
412: Snowed in
Finding peace and a warm bath in the mountains of Gunma
408: Edo elegance
Old world artisans keep tradition alive in Honshu's Kurashiki
401: Bird's eye view
Mary King mingles with the ghosts of Himeji Castle.
397:
It takes a village
Feed your spirits in Honshu's seaside town, Amanohashidate
393:
Bathing Apes
For a scenic dip with rare, furry primates and ready to primp for your pictures,
head to Jigokudani Onsen. Mary King gets in to hot water.
389: God speed
The mother of all Shinto temples, Ise Grand Shrine
385:
Hattoji
Highland hamlet
380: Nagasaki
Remembrance of things past
378: Kawagoe
From modern Tokyo to "Little Edo"
376: Tottori
Tottori's stunning landscapes
375: Kyushu
Bed and bath under the volcano
373: Ryogoku
Land of the giants
372: Osaka
Universal Studios Japan
371: Osaka
Amerika-mura: Osaka's funky town
369: Mie
Mikimoto Pearl Island
368: Takarazuka
Hyogo-ken's all women theater group
365: Kawasaki
Kawasaki's annual fertility festival
364: Aomori
A day on Fear Mountain
362: Nagano
Chill out snowboarding
361: Asuka
One foot in the grave
356: Yamanashi
Hakushu's hidden treasures
355: Waseda
Tram Trip
A streetcar named...
352/3:
Aomori
Jesus in Japan
351: Kumamoto
Under the volcano in Kyushu
350: Sado
Island
Explore the forgotten charms of Shukunegi
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