Cozmo's Café and Bar
The distinction between bars and restaurants
in Tokyo is often hazy. Upscale izakaya like Zaru and Sasagin,
designer restaurants like Le CoCon and Maisui, and the citys
now-ubiquitous dining bars all serve up thoughtfully
prepared food and a range of drinks in eye-catching surroundings.
Joining this list is Cozmos Café and Bar, which
opened just last month in Shibuya. Plush designer furnishings
and thumping club tunes give it the feel of a bar, while excellent
homemade food reveals the heart of a restaurant.
Cozmos sits between Shibuya and Omotesando stations,
in an area thats becoming something of a gaijin enclave.
Two bagel shops, a Hawaiian burger joint, and foreigner fave
The Pink Cow are all nearby; Cozmos, run by an American,
fits right in. On a recent visit, a crowd of arty expats enjoyed
boisterous conversations near the bar, while a smaller party
of corporate types huddled quietly off to one side. The layout
encourages socializing, with a small counter area and half
a dozen tables that sit among sleek chairs and sofas. The
look is clean and contemporary, yet also, thanks to well-chosen
touches of color, inviting.
Judging from the drinks menu, Cozmos
specializes in martinisbut not the kind your father
drank for lunch. Outré versions with espresso and apple
are offered alongside the classic gin-and-vermouth varieties
(all ¥1,200). We enjoyed the tart aftertaste of the Blood
Orange Martini, while the Cappuccino Martinia mix of
Illy coffee, Kahlua, vodka and steamed milkwas so smooth
and warming that were tempted to stop by and order one
for breakfast. Other drinks include Bass Pale Ale (¥650/bottle)
and Sam Adams (¥800), plus wine (¥650) and non-martini
Although we were warned that the lunchtime crowd had pretty
much eaten everything in sight, Cozmos super-friendly
staff offered to whip up some food with whatever they had
left on hand. Sure enough, small dishes of mixed nuts, pineapple
salsa, and the days quiche (¥500 each) arrived in
short order, and they were all first-rate. The salsa, in particular,
had us clamoring for more, the fruits sweetness nicely
complementing the bite of the red onion. Topping it all off
was a thin slice of sour cream cheesecake (¥500), which
passed muster with our New York companion.
At the end of our evening, we still couldnt decide if
Cozmos should be called a bar, restaurant, club or café.
And we didnt really care, because it does all of those
things, and does them exceptionally well.
1-6-3 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3407-5166.
Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5pm-4am, closed Sun. Nearest
stn: Shibuya. www.cozmoscafe.com
by Martin Hladik
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