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word of mouth
When popular restaurant Roti closed its Harumi Triton Square branch in March, there were a lot of sad diners. Fortunately, a new and exciting restaurant and wine bar has opened to take its place… or perhaps we should say “dramatic,” since that is how Garden Bay describes itself. Garden Bay offers modern Italian cuisine in a casual style at reasonable prices. The dinner menu is quite extensive. For starters, you can pick from carpaccio, tomato and basil salad, pancetta, terrine, or bacon and egg salad, for ¥680 to ¥1,380. For entrees, Garden Bay offers lots of grilled meats, seafood, pasta, rice dishes and some vegetarian fare. No entree item costs more than ¥2,400, and there is an ample selection of red and white wines from Italy, Spain, France, Argentina and Australia to go with your dinner. The restaurant is also popular with the lunchtime crowd.
Sets, which change daily, include pasta, a rice dish and a one-plate combination of salad, rice and meat. Of course, no meal is complete without dessert, and Garden Bay offers the likes of tiramisu, gateau chocolate cake and fruit tart. The restaurant is available for parties as well, starting at ¥2,400 per person for a two-hour period. Having just opened, Garden Bay doesn’t yet have an English menu, but the staff are friendly and floor manager Kanako Uehara is more than happy to help with any inquiries.

Harumi Triton Square 1F, Harumi 1-8-16, Chuo-ku 104-0053. Tel: 03-5547-0561. Open daily 11:30am-11pm. Nearest stn: Kachidoki. www.gardenbay.jp CB
602: The Kanten craze
A popular new diet shows jelly isn’t just for kids
601: Six Little Secrets
Our sommelier recommends his favorite wine bars
600: Healthy Options
Organic restaurants and shops are sprouting up all over Tokyo
599: Dive in
Aged sake is worth exploring, but the good stuff is forever young
598: Latin Flavors
Give thanks for Brazilian appetites
597: The Italian Job
Mitsuru Sakuraba is out to persuade Tokyo’s coffee drinkers that quality counts
596: Brilliant bakeries
Because man cannot live by rice alone
595: Golden Grains
One type of rice sticks out above the rest
594: Pietro Androsoni
Pastry Chef at Riva Degli Etruschi
593: Ripe for a Comeback
Australian Shiraz enjoys new-school cool
592: Down under and all over
When all is said and done, marcus yip just loves to cook
591: Cool foods
Chill out this summer with some traditional—and innovative—warm-weather treats
590: Mastering the art
Changing times bring new challenges for sake’s master brewers
589: French twist
Chef Thierry Voisin lands on his feet at the revamped Les Saisons
588: The heart of europe
Dry and unabashedly pure, the wines of austria make for a perfect summer quaff
587: Nutty About Natto
Don’t turn up your nose…this infamous goo is an acquired taste
586: Smoke-Free Feasts, Part III
Stub out and eat up at Tokyo’s no-smoking delis, cafes restaurants
585: Josef Budde
Executive Chef of the Grand Hyatt Tokyo
584: The Earl Arrives
... And he’s delivering gourmet sandwiches to Tokyo’s overstretched office workers
583: Stand and Deliver
Get a quick hit of sake at two of Tokyo’s top tachinomiya
582: Smoke-Free Feasts, Part II
As World No Tobacco Day Nears, Celebrate at Tokyo’s organic and ethnic eateries
581: Yoshiaki Abe
Executive Chef at Kakyu
580: The Donburi Diary
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579: In Praise of Pinot
Our sommelier salutes Hollywood’s homage to the world’s most glorious grape
578: Eat up, don’t light up
The smoke is slowly lifting in Tokyo’s dining rooms
577: Keeping it Real
Unpasteurized sake is like uncensored film: Risky but irresistible
576: The Man from Lavazza
Tadahiro Iwahashi wants to change the way Japan drinks coffee
575: Aarin Teich
Maitre ‘D and Manager of Stellato
574: Demystifying the Market
Kanji-ridden packages often hide delicious treats not to be missed
573: Open for Debate
You’d be a fool to turn up your nose at a wine just because it’s sealed with a screw cap
571: Tipple Trips
Visiting a sake brewery will enhance your appreciation of the drink and its craft
570: Art in a Glass
Mixologist Douglas Ankrah says Tokyo needs to be shaken and stirred
569: Mario Frittoli
Creator and head chef of Ristorante Luxor
568: Get Saucy
Simple japanese sauces can dress up otherwise bland veggies for a healthy diet
567: A Matter of Concentration
How a wine’s sweetness is achieved will help determine its value
566: Look Before You Slug
Cup sakes can be more than they’re cracked open to be
565: Hot Topics
The pick of Japan’s culinary magazines
564: Culinary Resolutions
This year, pledge to explore more of the world of food and drink on your doorstep
563: Losing Its Pop
Champagne makers need to face facts to put the fizz back in their bubbly
561-562: Seasonal sipping
This New Year's, drink sake the traditional way with the herbal mix known as otoso
560: Comfort Food
Healthy and hassle-free nabe warm the soul through winter
559: A bright Thamara
Canela’s young new chef brings a taste of Latin America to Tokyo
558: Mac attack
Our sommelier chews the fat with former roommate and Supersize Me creator Morgan Spurlock
557: Warming trend
As winter approaches, sake makers and drinkers alike get a taste for the warm stuff
556: Turkey Day delights
Tokyo restaurants serve up classic Thanksgiving fare
555: Harvest festival
Reap the best of the season as autumn’s fruits, vegetables and more reach their peak
554: Sugar and spice
Last year’s hot summer made some wines suffer and others truly shine
553: Tricks and treats
Tokyo bars and restaurants get into the Halloween spirit
552: Legends of the fall
Japanese brewers usher in autumn with traditional seasonal offerings
551: Master Glass
Sommelier Glenn Tanner crafts an award-winning wine list at Olives
550: Soy right
There’s never been a better time to try the impressive array of Japanese soybean product
549: Say cheese
Tokyo offers some tantalizing prospects for cheesecake lovers
548: White knight
The noble Chardonnay holds it own against a rush of New World upstarts
547: Zest for life
Cookbook author and culinary school director Elizabeth Andoh shares her passion for Japanese cuisine
546: Drinking fountain
Shinbashi's Sake Plaza overflows with information and examples of its namesake beverage
545: Top shelf
Once a rough country spirit, shochu is now the most sought-after drink in Japan
544: Style guide
A new book aims to single out the coolest restaurants in Tokyo
543: Tasting notes
An Italian wine show offers a chance to savor some of the country’s top offerings
542: Behind closed doors
Akira Ishibashi has made a second career out of hiding hip bars in nondescript locales
541: A matter of taste
Today's brewers carry on the tradition of the summertime sake sampling
540: Must-eat TV
Yukari Pratt feeds her yen for Japan's eclectic menu of food programs.
539: In the raw
Veteran sushi chef Takashi Ono takes Carlo Niederberger behind the scenes at Roppongi Hills’ Sukiyabashi Jiro.
538: Spanish lessons
Sommelier Ned Goodwin studies the wine and cuisine of the "New" Spain to see what all the fuss is about.
537: Red, white and brew
American Bryan Baird is the brains behind one of Japan's most popular craft beers. Bryan Harrell meets the brewmaster.
536: The nihonshu express
John Gauntner disembarks at Tokyo Station and finds a wealth of fine sake.
535: In the market
Depachika denizen Yukari Pratt gives us the inside scoop on the scrumptious world of department-store food floors.
534: Branching out
Looking for a gourmet meal that won’t empty your wallet? Steve Trautlein visits the less-expensive outlets of some of Tokyo’s elite eateries.
533: Think pink
It’s pretty, it’s tasty and it’s perfect for summer. Ned Goodwin reveals why wine lovers should take another look at rose.
532: Taste of success
Pizzafest winner Makoto Onishi tells Ai Uchida about the highs and lows of becoming Italy's most famous foreign pizza chef.
531: Toast of the town
John Gauntner reveals why Niigata reigns supreme as Japan’s top sake region.
530: Cha cha cha
529: Growth complex
Tokyo is seeing a surge in new buildings that cater to curious chowhounds. Tama M. Lung tours three recent arrivals.
528: Workaholic
Ned Goodwin stretches the limits of his sommelier skills at one of the world’s largest wine fairs.
527: Moveable Feasts
Matt Wilce's pick of Tokyo delis make a Golden Week picnic a walk in the park.
526: Grains of truth
John Gauntner sets the record straight on the diverse variety of sake rice.
525: Prost!
Bryan Harrell raises his glass to the beers of Germany, and the best places to quaff them in Tokyo.
524: Spices of life
Get your pho and dried mango fix at these five international food stores in Tokyo. Hanna Kite goes to market.
523: Que Syrah
Sommelier Ned Goodwin heads to his homeland to sample the latest darling of the wine world.
522: Shanghai surprise
Chinatown's newest attraction gives visitors a chance to sample the delights of the Middle Kingdom. Steve Trautlein chows down.
521: Spring fling
John Gauntner ushers in the warmer weather with a host of seasonal sake.
520: Luck of the Irish
Chef Dorje Heavey has become Japan's latest culinary sensation by bringing a taste of traditional Ireland to Japan. Aodhan O'Faolain hears his story.
519: Golden bowls
Carlo Niederberger tours Tokyo's newest "ramen town" and gets his fill of noodles from across the nation.
518: The sweet stuff
Resident oenophile Ned Goodwin tracks down some Tokyo chocolatiers whose wine lists match their bonbons.
517: Down to earth
A charter member of Japan's environmental movement, Hideo Fujimura serves up organic goodness at his down-home izakaya. Bryan Harrell pays a visit.
516: By the numbers
John Gauntner delves into the pluses and minuses of selecting sake.
515: Star gazing
When only the best will do, serious gourmands look to the stars in the esteemed Michelin guide. Tokyoites can also get a taste of its award-winners' fare, as Tama M. Lung reports.
514: Let them eat bread
Hanna Kite checks out the hot new bakeries making yeast lovers rise across Tokyo.
513: Bubbling over
Resident oenophile Ned Goodwin rediscovers the joys of Champagne with a little help from Dom Perignon.
512: Frugal feasts
Tokyo's finest restaurants offer affordable lunch sets for a fraction of the dinner bill. Hanna Kite takes lunch outside the office.
511: Some like it hot
Just in time for those frigid winter nights, John Gauntner debunks the claim that the only good sake is a cold sake.
509/10: Fresh meat
Matt Wilce dishes up 2003's best dining debuts.
508: Just desserts
Tokyo's latest theme park is a temple to all things sweet. Lisa Sekiguchi pays a visit to Jiyugaoka Sweets Forest.
507: 'Tis the season
With all the winter beers and holiday ales around, the amber brew's not just for summer anymore. Bryan Harrell throws a few back.
506: Talking shop
John Gauntner reveals the city's best-stocked but little-known sources for premium sake.
505: Haute chocolates
Top-class European chocolatiers avec cafés have oozed onto the Tokyo gourmet scene. Hanna Kite handpicks the city's best.
504: Home on the grange
Ned Goodwin toasts Penfolds, the prized winemaker of his native Australia.
503: Hot turkey
Hanna Kite finds out what's cooking for Thanksgiving this year.
502: Just for fungus
Bryan Harrell sniffs out matsutake, autumn's culinary delicacy.
501: Strange brews
And now, nihonshu wizard John Gauntner brings you sake completely different…
500: Masks and flasks
Carlo Niederberger counts the treats as Tokyo’s restaurants and clubs bewitch their tables for Halloween.
499: Import experts
Ned Goodwin talks shop with three of Tokyo's top foreign sommeliers.
498: Rise and shine
Whether continental or buffet, Western or Asian, Tokyo's hotels offer great ways to kick-start your day. David Chester breaks the fast.
497: Dining by design
Tama Miyake Lung digs into this week's slate of designer events and finds that even the eating is getting creative.
496: Sake and the city
Tokyo is filled with places to sample and study nihonshu. Resident expert John Gauntner offers a few pointers on where to begin.
495: Mexican dream
Tokyo is a tequila lover's heaven, with restaurants and bars serving up a margarita for every taste. Jenny Chen throws a few back.
494: A winning pair
Ned Goodwin expounds on the union of wine and washoku.
493: Big appetites
With yet another skyscraper thrown in the mix, Shiodome offers a world's worth of dining options. Chris Betros digs in.
492: A cook's tour
Matt Wilce joins Josef Budde at his chef's table to discover what brought him to the Grand Hyatt Tokyo.
491: Triple crown
Self-described "Sake Guy" John Gauntner kicks off a new column with three simple tips for enjoying good sake.
490: Rebel with a saucepan
Former Tokyoite Eric Gower pushes the boundaries of Japanese cuisine in a new cookbook, Tama Miyake Lung reports.
489: A place in the sun
Ned Goodwin casts his sommelier's eye over the best wines for summer.
488: California dreamin'
Tokyo restaurateurs are getting a taste for the Golden State. Jenny Chen reports.
487: Dean's list
Manhattan's most famous deli has begun its global expansion with a new outlet in Marunouchi. Martin Webb samples the selection of goodies.
486: Join the club
Tokyo's illustrious membership clubs are gaining momentum despite the recession. Carlo Niederberger reports.
485: Through the roof
Rooftop gardens aren't the only thing growing on top of our metropolis. Carlo Niederberger heads skyward and finds a new café culture blooming across the city.
484: Westward bound
Ned Goodwin travels across the Pacific and discovers an oenophile’s paradise.
483: Independent spirit
Carlo Niederberger scours the city for gourmet celebrations on the Fourth of July.
482: Hot flash
Summer’s here and suddenly there’s a “bar and grill” around every corner. Tama Miyake Lung explores Tokyo’s newest nightlife sensation.
481: Island hopping
Tama Miyake Lung navigates a sea of tropical dining spots in search of the endless summer.
480: Private eyes
Get out of the glare and sup in secret-Matt Wilce hunts out the most secluded restaurant seats in the city.
479: Iron supplement
Matt Wilce gets a gourmet dose from TV's Iron Chefs.
478: Chill factor
Summertime and the drinking should be easy. Ned Goodwin tells you what to sip when the heat soars.
477: Food for thought
Mohammad Yunos Hassani now wows Tokyo diners with Afghanistan cuisine. Carlo Niederberger reports.
476: Tapping the ivory
David Chester tells you where to sip and sup to the sounds of live piano music.
475: Top of the world
Haute drinking and dining is an elevator ride away. Carlo Niederberger reports.
474: Toque of the town
Roppongi Hills is teeming with innovative new restaurants and cafés. Chris Betros takes a look.
473: Historical present
Hanna Kite takes a tour of Tokyo’s oldest restaurants
472: Heavenly dining
Georgia Jacobs looks up the city’s best restaurants with a view.
471: Flavor favors the brave
Forget boring wine lists, says sommelier Ned Goodwin, Tokyo is full of oenological adventures, if you know where to look.
470: Spring to your lips
Sink your teeth into the season’s traditional fare. Carlo Niederberger tells you where to find it.
469: Homemade
Wow your dinner guests with recipes from the stars—that’s star chefs. Georgia Jacobs gets cooking.
468: Let’s meat
There may be nothing new under the sun, but in Tokyo there’s plenty doing between two buns. Steve Trautlein wolfs down the city’s best burgers.
467: On a Clare day
Tucked away in the hills of South Australia is a wine-lover’s paradise—the Clare Valley. Ned Goodwin samples the delights.
466: Haute dining
The top two floors of Shinjuku's My City store have become a gourmet's delight. Chris Betros samples the cuisine.
465: Home and away
Already a success in the US, Mako Tanaka looks to bring his distinctive fusion cuisine back to Tokyo, he tells Steve Trautlein.
464: Pearl one
Shell out for the one you love this Valentine’s Day at the city’s top oyster bars. Add a bit of bubbly to the mix and you have a sure-fire aphrodisiac for a night of romance. Matt Wilce picks some piscine pearls.
463: Eat your heart out
Japan's brand of Valentine's Day is more about chocolates than hot dates
462: Wok around town
Matt Wilce celebrates the coming Year of the Ram with a taste of Chinese regional cuisine
461: Where the heart is
Ned Goodwin visits fellow oenophile Karla Pratt to discuss life, loss and love of wine at Tochigi's Coco Farm & Winery.
460: Soup's on
The mercury's falling and comfort food is calling. Before you get chilled to the bone, David Chester helps you find some solace for the soul.
459: Winter warmers
There's nothing like a steaming hot pot to keep out the seasonal chill. Stephen Cotterill comes to grips with chanko nabe, sumo-style.
457/8: Cream of the crop
Matt Wilce serves up the dining world's hottest debuts in 2002
456: Food's the fashion
Martin Webb shops then drops at these stylish in-store cafés
455: Bottle tops
Ned Goodwin seeks out the city's best and brightest sommeliers
453: True to life
Matt Wilce meets Don Foley, the man behind Ebisu café Good Honest Grub
452: Talking turkey
Carlo Niederberger gets ready to gobble it up on Thanksgiving Day
451: Steeped in tradition
Love it or hate it, steaming oden signals the start of winter in Japan
450: Thinking inside the box
Tama Miyake investigates the ubiquitous bento with help from culinary expert Elizabeth Andoh
449: What lies beneath
Resident wine expert Ned Goodwin delves into the depths of Tokyo's cellars
448: Devilish dining
Matt Wilce scares up some horribly different dishes for Halloween
447: Tour de France
The toast of Paris, chef Eric Frechon is no flash in the bain-marie
446: On a roll
Onigiri is being rediscovered as a culinary delight in its own right
445: Chow down
Tama Miyake makes tracks to Tsukishima, home to the shitamachi specialty known as monja
444: In the mix
Steve Trautlein goes on a not-so-fruitless search for Tokyo's best juice bars
443: Pop stars
Matt Wilce tastes the good life at Tokyo's toniest champagne bars
442: New York's finest
Tama Miyake takes a bite out of the Big Apple without stepping outside the Yamanote line
441: Gaga for gyoza
Tokyo's newest theme park for foodies
440: Into the fire
Few things say summer like a steak on the barbie in your own backyard
439: Kitchen confidential
Tokyo restaurants are branching out by teaching customers how to whip up their own creations
438: Mix and match
Top tips for pairing food and wine
437: Divine dining
436: Hot plates
435: Sundae school
434: Rare vintages
433: Oodles of noodles
432: Secret gardens
431: Eat your heart out
430: Bottle shop
429: The Italian job
428: The water table
427: For the love of the game
426: Life before Starbucks
425: Show time
424: Hot spot
423: Gift of gusto
422: Crossing the Rhine
421: Mamas' boy
420: Tales of tofu
419: Top of the food chain
418: Small awakening
417: Feeding unfrenzied
416: Sakura sweets
415: Modern master
414: Star turns
413: A sip of style
412: Digital bites
411: The loving spoonful
410: Fried & tested
409: California Drinking
408: Puff daddy
407: Let's do brunch
406: Spice world
404: Party poppers
403: Roll with it
402: Festive feasting
401: From bush to bottle
396: Gastronomic expolorations
395: Gourmet to go

394: Gourmet to go

391: Imperial Cuisine
390: Pizza pizzazz
389: Eat elite
388: Don't eat the scenery
387: Niku nashi
386: Shanghai Surprise
385: Uncorked
384: Cake walk
383: Gastronomic nomad
382: Short fuse
380: Eating eelectric
378: Through the grapevine
375: Culinary dancer
372: Roy raves
359: Love feast
354: Fugu Ryotei
351: Gateau de Noel
350: Seasonal specials

ISSUES 349-
ISSUES 299-

By Ned Goodwin

Open for Debate

You’d be a fool to turn up your nose at a wine just because it’s sealed with a screw cap

Before you read on, put your snobbery aside. Forget the emotive appeal of traditional corks, and your perhaps unfounded dislike for screw caps; this is an important debate. The choice of closure when bottling a wine is crucial to its integrity. The closure is the key to maintaining the quality of the product—its clarity and stability—while excluding potentially hazardous dangers.

The complexities of choosing the right closure are many: A bad closure can compromise the wine by letting in microbes or excess oxygen. Still, some wine producers demand gradual oxygen ingress to age their wines, while other vintages, such as fresh, fruit-driven whites, for example, benefit from closures that are impermeable, creating a reductive state inside the bottle. For the consumer, closures should be easily removed while being aesthetically, emotively and qualitatively reassuring.

According to a recent UK survey, 55 percent of consumers prefer cork. But trends are changing: You may be surprised to hear that up to 40 percent of wine from the southern hemisphere these days is under screw. The Swiss, arguably the world’s most conscientious and generous wine-drinkers (46 liters per head annually, and not budget conscious like the British) embrace more than 60 percent of their imports with screw caps. In other words, they have no emotive or status issues with there being no cork.

Cork’s penchant for TCA-taint (the leaking of a chemical called 2-4-6-Trichloroanisole that causes the bitter taste of a so-called “corked” wine) has made many minds in the industry consider it replaceable.
The alternatives have mixed track records: Agglomerates made from small bits of cork bound together with glue are of questionable longevity; Altec (a higher grade agglomerate) and twin-topped corks (with layers of real cork at the end of the agglomerate), have both promised but ultimately failed to prevent TCA contamination; Diam allows alterable permeability depending on the style of wine sought, and holds the aesthetic appeal of cork, but its longevity is yet to be proven; the same is true of Polymer-sealed hybrid corks such as Procork, which have been promising in trapping TCA; others such as Neo and Nucork, which also have questionable longevity, are 30 percent slower to insert with a regular corker, making them expensive for the producers, while consumers complain they become increasingly difficult to remove.

All these closures are internal, and it should be noted that only the first 45mm of a bottle’s interior surface is manually controllable. Any closures longer than that or inserted into a damaged bottle are likely to result in contamination. This leaves the external closures, including Screw caps, also know as Stelvin.

Putting aside aesthetic concerns, Stelvin is not without its own risks: it relies on the bore on the neck of the bottle for non-permeability and thus, if the integrity of the external surface is tarnished in any way, the efficacy of Stelvin is threatened. This is also the case should Stelvin’s metallic interior lining deteriorate.

But in one important regard, Stelvin seems ahead of the pack: The lack of oxygen it allows in is arguably the most impressive of all closures, more so as attitudes toward the conditions thought necessary to give some wines their necessary aged quality change.
Cork’s grace has been its porosity that facilitates the oxygen ingress generally thought to be intrinsic to some wine’s development. Synthetic alternatives, plastic or screw cap, have been considered inappropriate for ageing wine in many cases, particularly ageworthy reds.

The validity of that theory is, however, in doubt. Tests have not only indicated that oxygen ingress under screw caps is similar to good-quality cork (usually that under which great reds have aged), but also that the chemical reaction known as polymerization that marks a wine’s ageing is not necessarily a product of that oxygen ingress at all, and in fact polymerization in premium reds occurs effectively under plastic alternatives and screw caps. Oxidation may hasten ageing, with potentially bright and “cabbagey” aromas, but a reductive closure regime is just as effective, with aromas being “not commercially unacceptable” according to the tests.

Of course, what is commercially acceptable and what is not is debatable. Surely the goal, aside from protecting what is inside the bottle, is to ensure that the wine is as best a reflection of time, site and winemaker’s intentions as possible. In short, wine must taste good.

So, is cork worth saving? If a closure maintains its wine’s integrity, no matter the style or intent, is adaptable at bottling and easily removed at consumption, it is effective. Whether screw caps will become an all-embracing closure, even for reds, remains a heated discussion, the conclusion of which should ultimately enhance the world of wine for the better.

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