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When popular restaurant Roti closed its Harumi Triton Square branch in March, there were a lot of sad diners. Fortunately, a new and exciting restaurant and wine bar has opened to take its place… or perhaps we should say “dramatic,” since that is how Garden Bay describes itself. Garden Bay offers modern Italian cuisine in a casual style at reasonable prices. The dinner menu is quite extensive. For starters, you can pick from carpaccio, tomato and basil salad, pancetta, terrine, or bacon and egg salad, for ¥680 to ¥1,380. For entrees, Garden Bay offers lots of grilled meats, seafood, pasta, rice dishes and some vegetarian fare. No entree item costs more than ¥2,400, and there is an ample selection of red and white wines from Italy, Spain, France, Argentina and Australia to go with your dinner. The restaurant is also popular with the lunchtime crowd.
Sets, which change daily, include pasta, a rice dish and a one-plate combination of salad, rice and meat. Of course, no meal is complete without dessert, and Garden Bay offers the likes of tiramisu, gateau chocolate cake and fruit tart. The restaurant is available for parties as well, starting at ¥2,400 per person for a two-hour period. Having just opened, Garden Bay doesn’t yet have an English menu, but the staff are friendly and floor manager Kanako Uehara is more than happy to help with any inquiries.

Harumi Triton Square 1F, Harumi 1-8-16, Chuo-ku 104-0053. Tel: 03-5547-0561. Open daily 11:30am-11pm. Nearest stn: Kachidoki. www.gardenbay.jp CB

776: Fangumu
775: Edosada
774: Istanbul
773: Aquavit
772: Tsunahachi
770-71: Nakae
769: Ehon no Kuni no Alice
768: Mother Esta
767: Tatsukichi
766: Ebisusan
765: Gion Kahala
764: Churari
763: Sonoko Café
762: Le Pre Verre
761: Nuun
760: M Café de Chaya
759: Kagurazaka Stagione
758: Peter
757: Ivan Ramen
756: Cha-coo-la
755: Otofu Bijin
754: Tamai
753: Serendip
752: Shilingol
751: Sano
750: Life
749: Silverado
748: School Food
747: Keke
746: 57
745: La Fiesta
744: Lugdunum
743: Jim Thompson’s Table Thailand
742: Hemp Restaurant Asa
741: Aureole
740: Radio Bar
739: Sou
738: Café de Shinran
737: Maman Terrace Aoyama
736: Roof
735: Madal
734: Sasashige
733: Italiana Enoteca d’Oro
732: Fukunokami
731: Kakura
730: Hapuna
729: Rainbow Kitchen
728: One Garden
727: Side Door
726: Pin
725: Cita Cita
724: Kamayaki Toriya Honpo
723: Tokyo Rotisserie Chicken DC
722: Asuka
721: Soba Giro
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718-719: Gaya Aoyama
717: Il Ristorante Nella Pergola
716: Harem
715: Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse
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710: Bistrot D’Artemis
709: Yaffa Organic Cafe
708: Pizzeria Bar D’Oro
707: Sennin Dou Shin
706: Salt
705: Yanagibashi Daikokuya
704: Eat More Greens
703: Shun
702: Arossa Ginza
701: Vege China
700: Hinokizaka
699: Minsk
698: Diya
697: Tribes
696: Siddique Palace
695: A-Kan Ginza
694: Podo
693: California Pizza Kitchen
692: Tribeca
691: Nefertiti
690: Ra Ku Ra
689: O Pulecenella
688: Manuel Casa de Fado
687: Mominoki House
686: Iconic
685: Lamb Junkie
684: Ebisu Shuka
683: Cuisine(s) Michel Troisgros
682: Fusho Shuka
681: Vegan Healing Café
680: Genkatsu
679: Ristorante Ruby
678: Bentornato! Maggio
677: Toumai
676: Suji’s
675: Seafood & Grill Atlantic
674: Brasserie Paul Bocuse Le Musée
673: Tonka
672: Ginza Hachi no Go
671: Masuya
670: Mango Tree Café
669: The White Fox
668: La Verde
667: Hale Kai
666: Lime
665: Yè Shanghai
664: Baker Bounceé
663: Yonchome Café
662: Ren Ren Ren
661: Ristorante Cantare
660: Bistro 35 Steps
659: Hong Kong Café
658: Pizza Express
657: Al Solito Posto
656: Firehouse
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654: Brasserie Aux Amis
653: Wasabiya
652: Ling Ling Saikan
651: Dobro
650: Who Cares?
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648: Vinuls
647: Kougetsu Tokyo
646: Chinmaya
645: Tofuya Ukai
644: Les Vinum
643: C’Zon
642: Le Bistrot de l’Echanson
641: Bar de España Muy
640: Yoneyama
639: Dazzle
638: Ekki Bar & Grill
637: La Pitchouli de Loulou
636: Toshomenso
635: Manuel
634: Yoshimura Soba
633: Kobikicho Tenkuni
632: Akasaka Kirin
631: Higashi-Yama Tokyo
630: Aotea Rangi
629: Hatago
628: My Lebanon
627: Signature
626: Fungo
625: J’s Kitchen
624: Kohmen
623: Chum Apartment
622: Benoît
621: Bape Café!?
620: Cerise
619: Tapas Molecular Bar
618: Jyapuche
617: Café Tosca
616: Kakomiya
614-615: Ambrosia
613: Paradise Macau
612: Restaurant & Wine Cellar Davis
611: La Bohéme Qualità
610: Les Saisons
609: Pizza Mia
608: Ajanta
607: KINTAME
606: Otemachi Café
605: My Humble House Tokyo
604: Shirube
603: The Pink Cow
602: Smoky
601: Calm Terrace
600: Pure Café
599: Gordon Ramsay at Conrad Tokyo
598: Saku Saku
597: Ura
596: Betta Aoyama
595: Ume no Hana
594: Suna
593: Hanbey
592: Il Saggio
591: Colours of India
590: Café de Raisin
589: Bamboo Grassy
588: Junkadelic
587: Kushi
586: Qahwa
585: La Bettola da Ochiai
584: Brown Rice Café
583: Il Pinolo Due
582: Kin No Saru
581: Garb Pintino
580: Good Honest Grub
579: Norabo
578: Cardenas Charcoal Grill
577: Tamasaka
576: Sadler
575: David’s Deli
574: El Quixico
573: The Hump
572: Sans Le Sou Bistrot
571: Cuisine Française Tateru Yoshino
570: Ginto
569: Kakyu
568: O.R.G. Food Bar
567: Porterhouse Steaks
566: Hakoniwa
565: Bochi Bochi Sakura-Shinmachi
564: Naka Naka
563: Chinese Café Eight
561-562: Beige Tokyo
560: Hinaya
559: Spago
558: Com Pho
557: Toushoumensou
556: Canela
555: Via Quadronno
554: Nabi
553: Sitaara
552: Chameleon
551: Cabana
550: Sora no Niwa
549: Wine & Dining Anthology
548: Chef’s V
547: Tokyo Main Dining
546: Charleston Café Oriental
545: Maimon Wine & Grill
544: Kitchen Shunju
543: Ricos Azabu
542: Restaurant Burdigala
541: Ocha-ya Kosen
540: Sukiyabashi Jiro
539: Sirocco
538: Café Slow
537: Kyo-no-sin
536: Casita
535: Angelo
534: Super 5
533: bys Tokyo
532: Cha Cha Minami Aoyama
531: Testa Matta
530: Grand Central Oyster Bar & Restaurant
529: Laune Café
528: Brin du Muguet
527: Devi Fusion
526: Kyosuzu
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523: Spyro's
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518: Mikura
517: Il Mulino
516: Marunouchi Terrace
515: Kelly
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513: Shellfish Bar Kazan
512: Tao Ryu
511: Sala Ferrari
509/10: Café California
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507: Hobgoblin Roppongi
506: Cicada
505: Dish
504: Asli
503: Restaurant J
502: Sasagin
501: L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
500: If
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498: Alishan Café
497: Vinpicoeur
496: Cube Zen
495: Nataraj
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493: Nylon
492: The French Kitchen
491: Arossa
490: Il Pacioccone
488: The Oak Door
487: Tera
486: Water Grill Oyster Bar
485: Favela
484: The Oregon Bar & Grill
483: Juniper
482: Olives
481: Caminetto
480: Mango Tree Tokyo
479: Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill
478: Norbulingka
477: Yuris
476: Che
475: Épice
474: Pearl
473: Luxor
472: Mako
471: Legato
470: Ko-tona
469: Coriander
468: Surfers Table
467: Afternoon Tea Baker and Diner
466: Takewaka
465: Shunju
464: Sonoma
463: Aux Amis Tokyo
462: Chung king Lo
461: Tokyo Apartment Café
460: Sui Sui
459: Toraja
457/8: Zuna Grill
456: Rainbow Roll Sushi
455: Fish Bank
454: Wolfgang Puck Café
453: tama
452: Stellato
451: Tukiji
450: Kawa No Hotoride
449: Bape Cafe!?
448: Pumpkin Cook Katsura
447: Barbacoa
446: Kubakan
445: Sydney Blue
444: Sam Choy's Tokyo
443: Maisui
442: Canal Café
441: Humming Bird
440: Sabbath
439: Eau
438: Eno Gusto
437: Anniversaire Restaurant
436: Vietnamese Cyclo
435: Le CoCon
434: DonCarmine
433: Tsunami
432: Soho's Omotesando
431: Underground Mr. Zoogunzoo
430: Mizuho
429: Zum Einhorn
428: Hu Tong Mandarin
427: Hananoren
426: Planet3rd
425: Harem
424: Kamonka
423: Havana Café
422: Imahan
421: A.O.C. Yoyogi
420: Daichi
419: Spago
418: Erawan
417: Ducafe
416: Hotaru no Niwa
415: Asa
414: Azur
413: Zsolnay
412: Tokyo Daihanten
411: Tokyo Salon
410: Twenty One
409:Meson Madrid
408: Torigen
407: Aoyuzu
406: Linamha
405: Aladdin
404: Immigrants Cafe
403: Niu
402: Chandlerfs Crabhouse
399: Winds

397: Salvatore Cuomo Bros
396: Vampire Cafe
395: Nobu

394: Gonpachi
392: Kunpuu
391: Il Cenetta
390: Goo
389: Hisio
388: Little Saigon
387: Dainari
386: Shinjuku Un
385: Organic Cafe
384: Guts
383: Dragonfly Cafe
382: Lawry's The Prime Rib
381: Oblong
380: Uoshin
379: Christon
378: Oasisi Bar & Grill
377: Volga
376: Deux dE Zeque
375: Shamaim
374: Kura Carmine
373: Roti
371: Ukai-Toriyama
370: Bowerey Kitchen
369: Kaikaya
368: Bon Monsieur
367: The Aegean
366: Echiopia
365: Cafe 8
364: Furutoshi
363: Daidaiya
362: Sonne
360: Daikonya
358: Chaiyaphum
357: Natural Harmony
356: Punraku
355: Outback Steakhouse
352/3: Tandoor

ISSUES 349-
ISSUES 299-
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by Alex Vega

Kushi

Let the ladies tempt you with kushiage in Kamiyacho

Photos courtesy of Kushi

We love to eat, but we hate to order. Ordering is essentially gambling—a bet that your choice is the best—and in expensive cities like Tokyo, the stakes are high. At Kushi, however, you have the chance to absolve yourself of that burden by letting the chefs choose for you.

There are only 14 seats at Kushi (excluding the private dining room, which holds eight), intimately positioned around the open kitchen, where the all-female band of chefs meticulously prepares and cooks kushiage, or deep fried meat, fish and vegetables on sticks. Exactly what is on offer depends on what is fresh and seasonal, the chef assured us, chatting and battering simultaneously.
Our elegant place settings included three dipping sauces, fresh lemons and a hillock of salt—to be precise, a blend of two types of salt (finely ground and somewhat rocky) with seasoning and skimmed milk to blunt the salt’s sharp taste. There was also a bowl of crisp, raw vegetables to gnaw on.

Of the six other parties at the counter—well-heeled couples, businessmen with expense accounts, and glamorous PR executives—four, like us, had chosen the omakase option, whereby the chefs, after checking if there is anything you can’t or don’t eat, present surprise after surprise until you say stop.

It was an adventure. The simple—kuruma shrimp; soramame beans—was intermingled with the exotic—mashed potato and caviar; cream cheese, eringi mushrooms and prosciutto. Among the seafood, the succulent clams and scallops (still almost raw in the middle) and the amadai snapper (scales exposed on one side) were divine, the flavors trapped inside by the batter, to be released by the first bite. We ordered second helpings of the exquisite beef, selected from Saga Prefecture for the juices it gives up in the frying pot.

Before we knew it, there were 17 wooden sticks filling each of our used-skewer urns, and we had drunk three types of sake, including Suige from Kochi (¥1,800)—exquisite but shamefully overpriced—after our opening draft beers (¥650).

In retrospect, weak-willed gluttons like us should have limited ourselves with one of the two courses (¥6,300 and ¥7,500), both of which include 12 varieties of kushiage, plus various items such as cold green tea soba, rice with eight types of seasoning, tsukemono pickles, and so on. But it was too late for that. On being presented with the bill, we quickly calculated an average price of just under ¥500 per skewer. On our next visit we’ll use that figure to keep a running tally, something that is important to do because, as we realized at Kushi, no matter who deals, it’s all a gamble.

Shibakoen 3-5-4, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5472-1058. Open 6-11pm (L.O. 10pm). Nearest stn: Kamiyacho. Menu in Japanese. Reservations recommended. Smoking not permitted (except in private room). www.garb94.com

 

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