Summer 2009

Tokyo is a shopper’s heaven, and perhaps nowhere more so than in this trendy enclave outside of Shibuya. The Ebisu-Daikanyama-Hiroo area is home to a dense concentration of high-class boutiques, funky vintage stores, hip patisserie and, of course, the people who frequent them. It’s also a haven for avant-garde architecture and alternative lifestyles, thanks to its leafy streets and free spirits. To the southeast, Shinagawa is an up-and-coming business district packed with commuters and high-rise office towers.


arts & crafts
Folk Art Gallery
Korean, Chinese and American antiques, as well as artwork, ceramics, lamps and building tools. 1-22-27 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3400-4006. Open 11am-7pm, closed Tue. Nearest stn: Ebisu.

Jade Salon
Jade Salon offers a variety of beauty and relaxation treatments and is located just three minutes from Ebisu station. Jade specializes in slimming and body courses, with customers seeing amazing results. Credit cards accepted. 6F Ebisu Saishin Bldg, 3-1-24 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5724-7154. Open daily 10am-10pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu.,

Cool, smart basics in subdued coloring for women (this store) and men (around the corner). 11-9 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5459-6505. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.

The second-coolest T-shirt shop on the planet (after the sister branch in Harajuku). 2F 19-6 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5428-5952. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.

Maison Martin Margiela

Converted factory houses Tokyo’s main retail outlet of the French fashion designer. Follow the footsteps, enter through the loading dock, and change in the old utility elevator. 2-8-13 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5725-2414. Open Mon-Fri noon-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-8pm.

As well as designer jeans and accessories from the dons of urban cool, this store also boasts a gallery space. 1F Sakuma Bldg, 20-13 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Open 11:30am-8pm; Sun & hols 11am-8pm. Tel: 03-5784-3812. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.

Evisu Tailor
The home of the now globally desirous denim brand sells all things Evisu (in Ebisu, geddit?). Kami-Meguro, 1-1-5 Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-3710-1999. Open daily noon-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.

Q Flagship
An impressive selection of fashion labels and one very cool fireplace. 1-30-10 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5456-9117. Open daily 12-8pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu or Daikanyama.

Fashion & Lifestyle
A large lifestyle store selling '50s-inspired furniture, casual clothing and a range of cute creatures called "Baboo’s" with big teeth. 11-8 Sarugakucho. Tel: 03-6415-6622. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.


Home-Resort offers blissful aromatic massage treatments at your home or hotel (within Tokyo’s 23 wards). The therapists, all of whom are women, are trained in shiatsu and aromatherapy. Services range from a 90min Basic Course (¥11,000) to a three-hour VIP Course (¥33,000). One of the most popular treatments is the 80min Dual Therapist Course (¥28,000). For individual 30min treatments, Home-Resort charges ¥5,000 for head massages, ¥7,000 for aromatherapy, ¥4,000 for reflexology, and ¥3,500 for body therapy. For Metropolis readers and first-time customers, Home-Resort is offering a ¥3,000 discount on treatments of ¥15,000 or more, plus 10min of extra therapy. Tel: 03-6277-0370.,


Bonjour Records
A boutique record store specializing in dance and ambient tunes with a minimal but eclectic selection of vinyl, CDs and magazines. 24-1 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5458-6020. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.

Harness Dog
Dress Spot as a chipmunk or put him in a frock at this pet-accessory heaven. 3-9 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3477-2445. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.

shopping center
Daikanyama Address
The area’s classiest shopping district has lots of brand names but not much charm. 29-1 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Hours vary among stores. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.

A comprehensive shop selling all sorts of this and thats and bits and bobs from peanut butter makers to kitchen noise simulators. Weird and wonderful. 2F Mode Cosmos Bldg, 28-10 Sarugakucho, Shibuya. Open daily 11am-8pm. Tel: 03-3461-2552. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.

Dining ¥(~¥3,000) ¥¥(¥3,000-¥6,000) ¥¥¥(¥6,000-¥10,000) ¥¥¥¥(¥10,000~)


Izakaya as an artform: minimal décor, reliable, simply seasoned food and prompt service. Ingredients on the 100 item-strong menu are provided daily by the owner’s wholesale produce company. B1 Yama Bldg, 1-9-2 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3770-6405. Open Mon-Fri 5:30pm-2am (L.O. 1am), Sat & hols 5:30pm-midnight (L.O. 11:30pm). Nearest stn: Ebisu.

Expect to pay more than usual for the mandatory appetizers, but consider it a small price for the chance to enjoy one of Tokyo’s oldest and most prominent izakaya. 1-7-12 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3461-3367. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight (L.O. 10:30pm), closed Sat-Sun & hols. Nearest stn: Ebisu.

Bamboo Grassy
Fine Japanese cuisine from tofu and sashimi to teppanyaki and okonomiyaki (savory "pancakes") in an elegant setting. Try the omakase courses to sample the chef’s selection. B1 Pia House Ebisu Bldg, 3-9-29 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5739-0527. Open daily 5pm-1am (L.O. midnight). Nearest stn: Ebisu (east exit). ¥¥

The breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet dish known as tonkatsu is a staple Japanese comfort food. Kimukatsu updates this classic by thinly slicing the pork and serving it “mille-feuille” style. The restaurant has branches in many popular neighborhoods throughout the city, including this one in Ebisu. 4-9-5 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5420-2929. Open Sun-Thu 11:30am-11pm (LO 10pm), Fri-Sat & days before hols 11:30am-11:30pm (LO 11pm). Nearest stn: Ebisu.

Shinobu Tei Hotaru
Named for the flickering firefly, or hotaru, this Ebisu eatery strives to serve authentic Japanese cuisine at reasonable prices in a funky, nature-inspired setting. B1 Fukutaka Bldg, 1-14-10 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5768-6678. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, Sun & hols 5-11pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥

Higashi-Yama Tokyo
A stylish Japanese restaurant with excellent food. The brainchild of designer Shinichiro Ogata, whose studio, Simplicity, where he makes traditional Japanese pottery with a modern twist and more, is conveniently housed in the same building. No English menu. 1-21-25 Higashiyama, Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-5720-1300. Open daily 6pm-1am, closed Sun. Nearest stn: Naka-Meguro. ¥¥

Former Spago chef Kenichiro Inada brings a taste of California to Ebisu. Expect hip fusion dishes and a wide range of California wines. 1F ATY Bldg, 3-28-12 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5421-2228. Open Tues-Sun 11:30am-4pm (L.O. 3:30pm) and 5:30pm-1am (L.O. 11:30pm), brunch 10am-4pm (Sat, Sun, hols). Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥

Cardenas Charcoal Grill
One of the finest restaurants in Ebisu, also notable for being one of the first major eateries to have a blanket no-smoking policy in the dining room. (Smoking is allowed at the bar). 1-12-14 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5428-0779. Open daily 6pm-2am; Holidays 6-11pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu (JR west exit). ¥¥¥

Gourmet sandwiches like you get back home, hamburger patties made from 100 percent beef, organic vegetables and original-recipe bread. 1F Shichiseisha Bldg, 5-1-20 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3444-4560. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, Sun 11am-6pm. Nearest stn: Hiroo. ¥

Aotea Rangi
Mussels, seafood and New Zealand wine (more than 100 varieties) are among the specialties at this tiny restaurant. The manager will make wine recommendations. 1-21-18 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3447-1496. Open Wed-Mon 6pm-midnight. Menu in Japanese and English. Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥

This glitzy eatery next to Ebisu station offers Asian and European fusion dishes and DJs spinning house, jazz and samba. B1 Daikoku Bldg, 1-8-14 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3449-5075. Open Mon-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6pm-5am, Sun & hols 5-11:30pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥

Il Boccalone
Famous for superb Italian cuisine and great Parmesano risotto scraped from a giant wheel, this place is always packed. Silk Ebisu Bldg, 1-15-9 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3449-1430. Open Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm (L.O.). Sun 5:30pm-10pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥¥

Fun Mexican restaurant in Naka-Meguro owned by a Japanese traveler who, returning from Central America, missed the food so much he decided to open a restaurant of his own. 4-10-4 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-5725-5020. Open daily 6pm-2am. Nearest stn: Nakameguro. ¥

middle eastern
My Lebanon
Good Middle Eastern cuisine with occasional popular (but expensive) belly-dancing nights. Owned by Rita Ghosn, wife of Carlos, the celebrity CEO of Nissan. 1-33-18 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5459-2239. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 5-10pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama or Ebisu. ¥¥¥

J's Kitchen
Top-notch macrobiotic/vegan food in a New York loft-style environment. The menu includes original chahan (fried rice), red curry, macrobiotic-style sukiyaki and vegetable fajitas. No smoking. 5-15-22 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel:03-5475-2727. Open Mon-Sat 11am-10:30pm, Sun & hols 11am-4:30pm. Nearest stn: Hiroo. ¥


This standing bar has a good range of cup sake, izakaya-style food and some of the friendliest service in town. Hunt for the toilet hidden among the sake cups. 1-14-1 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3496-7744. Open daily 5pm-3am. Nearest stn: Ebisu.

Ebisu 18-Ban
A Spanish take on the tachinomiya standing bar genre. There are only 18 seats, and count yourself lucky if you get one—everyone else has to stand. On offer are tapas dishes and reasonably priced wines and sherries. 2-3-13 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3794-1894. Mon-Fri 6pm-5am; Sat, Sun & hols 5pm-5am. Nearest stn: Ebisu.

Kissa Ginza
A café by day, Kissa Ginza comes into its own at night, when DJs spin funk and retro classics on weekends. The interior hasn’t changed since the ‘60s, and some customers dress accordingly. 1-3-9 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3710-7320. Open Mon-Sat 11am-Midnight, closed Sun & hols. Nearest stn: Ebisu.

Nestled in a leafy spot on the banks of the Meguro River, Munch-ya charges just ¥500 for most items on its extensive menu. 1-10-23 Naka-Meguro, Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-5722-1333. Open daily 6pm-4am. Nearest stn: Naka-Meguro.

Just a few minutes’ walk from the station, Zetton has private rooms, a loft and a cool deck, outfitted with white couches, with trendy locals lounging on them. 1F SPC Japan Bldg, 1-1-33 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5774-1916. Open daily 11:30am-3am. Nearest stn: Ebisu, east exit.

Air hosts a range of house and techno events with visiting international DJs. The upstairs restaurant, Frames, is good for midnight munchies, or lunch if you’re passing during the day. 2-11 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5784-3386. Times vary. Nearest stn: Shibuya or Daikanyama.

A cavernous club with some big-name artists. The lowest level, Saloon, sometimes hosts small club events midweek. B1-3 Za House Bldg, 1-34-17 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3464-1012. Times vary. Nearest stn: Daikanyama or Naka-Meguro.

What the Dickens
British food, live music, and other types of entertainment are had in this two-story pub. 4F Roob 6 Bldg, 1-13-3 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3780-2099. Open Tue-Sat 5pm-1am, Sun 3pm-1am. Nearest stn: Ebisu.

sports bar

The Footnik
A regular hangout for the city’s soccer fans, this British pub offers a great selection of draft beer and food, an outdoor terrace and regular sports broadcasts on its big screens. Also check out the fab new branch just steps from Osaki station in the glittering Think Park complex. Ebisu branch: 1-11-2 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5795-0144. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-1am, Sat, Sun & hols 3pm-1am. Nearest stn: Ebisu, east exit. Osaki branch: 1F Think Park, 2-1-1 Osaki, Shinagawa-ku. Tel: 03-5759-1044. Open daily 11am-1am.

Theme bar
Miniature trees populate the Zen surroundings of this unique concept bar. Closing at 2am, Bonsai-ya makes a serene and relaxing start to a night out. 4F Takara Bldg, 2-8-9 Nishi-Ebisu. Tel: 03-3464-7377. Open Tues-Sun 7pm-midnight. Nearest stn: Hiroo.


yebisu garden place Shops, restaurants, museums and more—this complex has it all|tokyo metropolitan museum of photography Changing displays by the best Japanese and international lensfolk|yebisu beer museum Study the beer-making process before sitting down to a few samples|tokyo metropolitan central library The city’s main public library sits inside a leafy park| AtrE shinagawa A New York-themed dining complex makes Shinagawa station feel like Grand Central|hillside terrace Fumihiko Maki’s mix of residential, commercial and public spaces was designed to adapt to the land

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